Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Chef Jose Garces - City's Best Philadelphia Interview

Jose Garces: From Grandma's Kitchen To 'Iron Chef'Mar 21st 2011 11:30AM / by Ptah Gabrie




Jose Garces is a busy man these days. He's opened seven restaurants in Philly and Chicago since 2005 and most recently opened a Mexican food truck in Center City named Guapos Tacos. His farm in Bucks County is gearing up for a new season of locally grown produce, he's the sixth chef to earn the title of Iron Chef America and Garces is a semifinalist for Best Chef in this year's James Beard Awards. His style of cooking blends family, ethnic tradition and a desire to push the boundaries of cooking. Garces follows a simple mantra: "Authentic and innovative are not contradictory."

How did your grandmother shape the way you cook?
My mamita amada, or beloved grandmother, was the first person to bring me into the kitchen, along with my mother. Cooking with her, making big meals for the family from her Ecuadorian recipes, intensified my interest in Latin cuisine, which is largely present throughout my restaurants.

What's one dish you serve that truly exemplifies your grandmother's cooking?
At Amada, we serve a variation on the first empanada she taught me to make. It's called Amada's Empanada -- green plantain dough stuffed with spinach and manchego cheese, served over an artichoke heart and piquillo pepper escabeche. It always takes me back to her kitchen in Chicago, where we'd roll out the dough, and I'd be covered in flour.

After opening so many prestigious restaurants, what made you decide to open Guapos Tacos?
Guapos Tacos was born after a trip to Mexico City. We ate such great street food, and I wanted to bring that back to Philly. It reinforces the fact that food should be fun.

Do you feel like Guapos Tacos lets you tap into a group of people who may not normally come into one of your other restaurants?
One of my favorite things about Philly is the diversity of our dining scene. My guests seem to come from all walks of life, and I love that about the city. Perhaps Guapos Tacos will help me to reach a different crowd, but more importantly, I think it will help me share my food with people in a different setting -- at their private events and even casually curbside -- rather than in a restaurant.

Why was opening JG Domestic important to you?
JG Domestic is the culmination of my career so far. The menu is proudly inspired by the rich, eclectic cuisines of our country and its harvests. It's a true celebration of the great products we've got right in our very own soil and it gets back to the roots of cooking -- letting the seasons tell you what to prepare, not the other way around.

What types of food will you get from your farm this year?
We're looking forward to fresh produce, especially lettuces, herbs and root vegetables, then squash and melons as the summer goes on. Come autumn, we'll have pumpkins, too.

Why is having this farm important to you?
I've always believed in top-quality ingredients, and the farm allows me complete access to those ingredients. I'll be able to monitor the growth of this produce from seed to plate, and I think that's an amazing way to be sure that we're serving the very best to our guests.

Why do you think you have been so successful on Food Network's "Iron Chef?"
"Iron Chef" has been a continuous learning experience for me. Each new ingredient forces me to dig deep into my culinary arsenal and come up with new and daring ways to prepare them. I think my willingness to adapt and my experience with varied cuisines has been a great asset.

Aside from Latin and Spanish cooking, what is your next favorite style?
I'm interested in all kinds of cuisines, from Peruvian Chifas, which incorporate indigenous South American ingredients into Cantonese cooking styles, to modern American dishes that take their inspiration from all over the world.

It seems like you are trying to push the boundaries with every place you open. Do you have any ideas or goals you would like to see come to fruition in the coming years?
I do have one more project coming up, Frohman's Wursthaus, a sausage and beer joint in Midtown Village in Philadelphia. But to be honest, I'm really enjoying everything that I have going on right now, from the restaurants to the farm to "Iron Chef." I'd love to be able to continue to spend time with my family as well, so once Frohman's is up and running, I'm planning to just sit back and enjoy it all for a while.

JG Domestic, 2929 Arch St.; 215-222-2363

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